It doesn’t make for pleasant dinner conversation, but Asia is facing an epidemic of diet-induced diseases. Instances of heart disease and hypertension have spiked as serving sizes get bigger and lifestyles become more sedentary. Today, for example, the region has more than 60 million diabetes sufferers; that number is expected to top 130 million by 2025. Everyone knows Western fast food is partially responsible. But there’s a growing realization that Asia’s battle against the bulge may be as much a domestic problem as an imported one. “We’ve discovered that the largest percentage of saturated fat in our diet is coming from local ethnic food,” says Dr. Annie Ling of the Singapore Health Board.
Better incomes are translating into wider waistlines. Fried noodles, for example, once enjoyed on special occasions, are now a daily staple in Singapore. In the Philippines, lechon–pig roasted on a spit–was usually reserved for weddings and fiestas. Now it’s found in staff canteens or restaurant buffets. “The attitude is that tubers and vegetables are not prestigious foods,” says Dr. Tee E. Siong, president of the Nutrition Society of Malaysia. “People think that eating well means more meat, more fat.”
Asia’s shift from agricultural to urban economies is no small factor. When days were spent toiling in tin mines or on palm-oil plantations, workers needed every calorie they could get. Popular dishes like Malaysia’s nasi lemak–rice cooked in coconut milk served with spicy sambal sauce and fried chicken–didn’t pose a health risk for laborers who walked home. But for the guy who drives to work and then stares at a computer screen all day, eating too much nasi lemak is asking for trouble.
Asian officials are trying to address the mounting public-health crisis. Many local food markets in Singapore post a bumper sticker suggesting that patrons ask for less sauce, oil or salt. It appears to be helping: according to last year’s government survey 30 percent of customers asked for lighter orders. Society president Tee believes moderation is the key. “It’s not wise to tell people not to eat nasi lemak, or they won’t listen at all. They love it so much.” He’s just hoping they love their health, too.
